I’ve been trying to think of a way to succinctly sum up my Slovakian
saga, but I'm afraid there isn’t really a way to do that. Just skim this if you want, you won't miss
much. I took a look at the map and
noticed that the train from Budapest to Prague goes very near to Bratislava, so
I decided to spend the day in Slovakia on my way to the Czech Republic. I ended up seeing much more of the Slovak
suburbs than I bargained for. Shortly
before the train reached Bratislava, we were delayed due to an accident further
up the track. After waiting for some
time, everyone was evacuated from the train and told to walk through this little
village until we came to a main road. Not having any idea where I was going, I started to follow the crowd traipsing through
town. I had met an American girl, Kristin,
about the age of my sons, on the train.
She was on her way to the airport to fly home, and was really panicked
about the possibility of missing her flight.
She kept saying that she would be having a breakdown and be in tears if
she hadn’t met me. So I felt responsible
for her. We finally got to the road
where we were supposed to wait for busses to take us to the train station. Since Kristin thought she would miss her
flight if she didn’t go directly to the airport, a young Slovak girl called her
a taxi. They said they would be there in
6 minutes, so I assured Kristin that I wouldn't leave her until I knew she was safely on her way to the airport. Well, 30 minutes later,
still no taxi, and by then 2 busses (crammed full of former train passengers
including the girl with the phone) had come and gone. There were still a few folks standing there,
and I mentioned that it was taking a long time for another bus to get
there. They told me that there wasn’t
another bus to the train station, that the 2 that had come and gone were
it. Oops, nobody had mentioned that, not in
English, at least. Not good. Okay, I had to “keep calm and carry on” as
they say here in England, so Kristin wouldn't totally freak. I
figured if we could get a bus to the center of town, from there we would be
able to get to our respective destinations.
So we took the next bus that headed to into Bratislava. We met a young man who told us to
follow him and that he would get us to the right busses for the airport and train
station. As luck would have it, the bus we were on broke down, but the young
man took us to a tram and we continued on our way. Several times we tried to explain to people
that we had to leave our train due to an accident and then had to leave our bus
due to a breakdown, but they would just shrug and say, “Welcome to Slovakia”. Seriously, that happened at least 3 or 4
times! So we got to the central
transportation hub where the trams and busses meet, and the young man pointed
out a bus that would take Kristin to the airport and another that would take me
to the train station. He said it was
only a 15 minute ride to the airport, and Kristin had about an hour and a half
before her flight which I assured her would be plenty of time in an airport the
size that I assumed Bratislava’s would be.
(I hope I was right!) Anyways, Kristin
seemed to have calmed down and she thought she could make it on her own from
there, so I headed off on the bus that supposedly went to the train station,
armed with the word “Train Station” written in Slovak in my notebook. I found the word on the map on the bus, but
we never seemed to get closer to it.
Finally, I was the only person left on the bus, and I showed the word to
the driver. My interpretation of the
gestures and sounds he made that I imagine were Slovak words, was that this was
the end of the bus line, so I was out of luck.
The end of the bus line is not a bus station, you know, it’s a big
bus parking lot. So there I was. Stranded in Slovakia. In the
snow. Well, it wasn’t actually snowing,
but there were patches of snow on the ground, and it was pretty darn cold since
I hadn’t packed a coat on this trip, in the interest of travelling light (although
I did have my spiffy new rain hat, that I really love, purchased at a craft fair
near my UK home). For some reason, I just rolled with it, as
they say to do in Fulbright. I think
once I got in that calm mode for Kristin, I just stayed in the zone. So I started wandering aimlessly through
suburban Bratislava. Finally……..What’s that up ahead??? Why I do believe it’s a bus stop!!! Praise the Lord!! My travelling angel, who had obviously been
napping the past couple of hours, must have awoken, as not only was there a bus
stop (why that made me so happy, I’m not sure, as busses hadn’t exactly worked
out for me so far!) but there was also a young girl who spoke some English and
could tell me which bus would take me to Old Town Bratislava. I'd come this far, I might as well see the sights.
“Lo and Behold” this bus really did
take me to the historic district of Bratislava! The Old Town was really quiet, but quite
nice.
|
Bratislava--note snow of the roof |
|
The Paparazzi |
|
These church windows had been broken out, but I thought
this was a clever solution to the problem; board them up
and paint copies of famous works of art! |
|
Cumil, "The Watcher" at work |
One of the few people on the
street (actually under the street) was Cumil, “The Watcher”. This was one of the quirkier statues I’ve
seen. After wandering around the Old
Town a bit I decided to climb up the hill to Bratislava Castle, which hovers
over the historic district. I learned
that this site has been inhabited since the Stone Age. About the time the Slovak mass transit system
was built. (Kind of a snarky comment
coming from an American, since we hardly have a mass transit system at all in the
states, but hey, this was a long day.) And let me add a little aside; I'm actually lucky that I didn't get hauled off to some Slovak jail for illegally riding busses and trams, because at this point I didn't have any Euros (Hungary uses forints and the Czech Republic uses the Czech Koruna, which I did have, but I didn't see any ATMs or currency exchanges before I got into the Old Town) and if you are caught riding without a ticket, you can be fined 40 Euros, but I didn't have any Euros...... so I really shouldn't complain about the transportation system, since I was riding for free.
|
Bratislava Castle |
|
Celebrating my Charge up the Hill |
|
Not sure who this is, but it's a cool statue |
The castle was really quite impressive, but I couldn't go inside due to renovations. So I headed back down the hill to look for
some authentic Slovak food. I saw an advertisement
for chicken schnitzel on the side of a nice-looking hillside café, so I went
inside to order some. “Oh” said the
waitress, “you want the tourist plate.” Sigh. It might not have been
traditional Slovak food, but I have to say, it was pretty tasty. I took off my cardigan (note to British
friends, I said “cardigan” not “sweater”,
I’m learning!) and hat and settled in
for a well-deserved relaxing meal. After dinner I continued down the slope for a little more time in the historic
district. Then I caught a bus that took me to….. Ta Da! THE TRAIN STATION. Yes indeedy, I actually made it to the train
station, about 6 hours later than I had planned, but it was all good...... until I got on the train and realized that
my beloved rain hat was still in the hillside café. (This part is up to you; imagine Tony
Bennett singing in his most melancholy voice)
♫ I left my
hat, in Bratislava, high on a hill, it calls to me……….. ♫
Wow, that sounds like quite the adventure! Poor Kristen; it's great that you were there to reassure her. You're so sweet, Cindy! Glad you liked Slovakia!
ReplyDeleteDO NOT SKIM THIS POST! Even though Cindy gives you permission to do so! THIS is a great story, and one that had me laughing my way through it! Sorry, Cindy, as I know there were more tears in your version of it! And you, my friend, are a most gifted blogger! The last line of this post is timeless and classic! Again, thanks for a lovely diversion, a few heartfelt laughs, and a view into the global goings-on of our friends!
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